Jojoba Oil
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Jojoba Oil for Skin: What Does the Research Say?
Jojoba oil has become a staple in modern skincare, but despite its name, jojoba oil is not technically an oil in the traditional sense. Derived from the seeds of Simmondsia chinensis, jojoba consists predominantly of long-chain wax esters rather than the triglycerides that make up most botanical oils. Research reviews report that approximately 98% of jojoba's lipid content consists of waxes, primarily wax esters (Gad et al., 2021).
This unusual composition is one of the reasons we find jojoba particularly interesting for skincare.
Jojoba's Unique Wax Esters
Human skin naturally contains several classes of surface lipids, including fatty acids, triglycerides, cholesterol, steryl esters, wax esters, and squalene. These surface lipids contribute to normal skin physiology and barrier function (Akhaphong et al., 2018).
Jojoba is one of the major botanical sources of liquid wax esters, consisting largely of esters formed from long-chain fatty acids and fatty alcohols (Pazyar et al., 2013; Gad et al., 2021).
This composition gives jojoba a distinctive texture and makes it particularly useful in moisturizers, facial oils, creams, balms, and other lipid-based skincare formulations.
Jojoba as an Emollient
One of jojoba's most useful roles in skincare is as an emollient.
Emollients help soften and smooth the skin by providing lubrication to the outermost layers of the skin. Jojoba spreads easily across the skin and leaves behind a conditioning layer without the same heavy sensation associated with some botanical butters and oils.
Dermatologic literature describes jojoba as an ingredient used in cosmetic formulations including moisturizers and other topical preparations (Pazyar et al., 2013).
For this reason, we use jojoba not simply because it is a botanical ingredient, but because its lipid chemistry gives it a functional purpose within a skincare formulation.
Jojoba and the Skin's Moisture Barrier
The outer surface of our skin contains a complex mixture of lipids that contributes to maintaining hydration and normal barrier function.
Researchers have investigated botanical lipid mixtures designed to mimic these naturally occurring skin-surface lipids. One study created a botanical skin-surface lipid mimetic using ingredients derived partly from Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba), along with macadamia and olive-derived components.
When the complete lipid mixture was applied to experimentally delipidized skin, researchers observed improvements in barrier function and skin hydration. Improvements in elasticity and firmness were also reported in aged skin (Akhaphong et al., 2018).
However, there is an important distinction: this study evaluated a complete lipid mixture, not pure jojoba oil by itself.
Therefore, it would be inaccurate to say this study proves jojoba oil alone "repairs the skin barrier." Instead, the research supports the rationale for incorporating jojoba-derived lipids into formulations designed to complement skin-surface lipids.
Anti-Inflammatory and Soothing Potential
Jojoba has also received scientific attention for its potential anti-inflammatory properties.
A dermatological review by Pazyar et al. (2013) examined the available research surrounding jojoba and reported evidence suggesting anti-inflammatory activity, as well as potential applications involving skin conditions, wound healing, skin aging, moisturizers, and other topical formulations.
A later comprehensive review also summarized experimental evidence supporting anti-inflammatory activity associated with jojoba. Some of this evidence comes from laboratory and animal research, meaning it should not automatically be interpreted as proof that jojoba treats inflammatory skin diseases in humans (Gad et al., 2021).
For cosmetic skincare, we therefore prefer to describe jojoba as an ingredient with soothing and anti-inflammatory potential rather than claiming that it treats inflammation or inflammatory skin disorders.
What About Acne-Prone Skin?
Jojoba is frequently described online as an "acne-fighting oil," but this claim deserves some context.
One prospective observational pilot study evaluated a facial mask containing clay and jojoba oil in participants with acne-prone and lesioned skin. Participants applied the masks two to three times per week for six weeks.
Researchers reported significant reductions in inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions, with a mean reduction of 54% in total lesion counts among participants with complete lesion-count data (Meier et al., 2012).
While those findings are interesting, the study evaluated clay combined with jojoba, not jojoba oil alone. It was also an open observational pilot study rather than a large randomized controlled trial.
Therefore, the study provides preliminary evidence, but it does not demonstrate that jojoba oil by itself treats or prevents acne.
Antioxidant Potential
Jojoba contains more than wax esters. Chemical analyses summarized in the scientific literature describe minor constituents including sterols, vitamins, phenolic compounds, and flavonoids.
Research reviewed by Gad et al. (2021) also describes antioxidant activity associated with jojoba and its constituents.
Antioxidants are particularly interesting in skincare because oxidative stress contributes to processes associated with environmental skin damage and visible aging.
However, jojoba should not necessarily be viewed as a replacement for established antioxidant skincare actives. Instead, its antioxidant potential is another reason it can complement a well-designed skincare formulation.
Jojoba and Skin Aging
Jojoba is sometimes marketed as an "anti-aging oil," but we prefer a more evidence-based interpretation.
Dermatological literature has discussed jojoba's potential relevance to skin aging, and its emollient properties make it useful for maintaining soft, conditioned skin (Pazyar et al., 2013).
That does not mean jojoba has been clinically proven to eliminate wrinkles or reverse skin aging.
Instead, jojoba can serve as a supportive lipid ingredient within formulations intended to moisturize, condition, and maintain healthy-looking skin.
Why We Use Jojoba
Jojoba offers a unique combination of wax esters, emollient properties, excellent spreadability, antioxidant potential, and promising soothing properties. Its chemistry also makes it an interesting ingredient to combine with other skin-compatible lipids and botanical ingredients.
Rather than expecting one ingredient to do everything, we formulate with jojoba as one component of a complete lipid system designed to moisturize, soften, condition, and support healthy-looking skin.
That's what makes jojoba valuable to us: not because it's a miracle oil, but because its chemistry makes sense for your skin.
References
Akhaphong, B., Harper, R. A., & O'Donoghue, T. (2018). A botanically derived skin surface lipid mimetic based on the composition of healthy 22-year-old females. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 17(5), 965–976. (Read Article Here)
Gad, H. A., Roberts, A., Hamzi, S. H., Gad, H. A., Touiss, I., Altyar, A. E., Kensara, O. A., & Ashour, M. L. (2021). Jojoba oil: An updated comprehensive review on chemistry, pharmaceutical uses, and toxicity. Polymers, 13(11), 1711. (Read Article Here)
Meier, L., Stange, R., Michalsen, A., & Uehleke, B. (2012). Clay jojoba oil facial mask for lesioned skin and mild acne—Results of a prospective, observational pilot study. Forschende Komplementärmedizin, 19(2), 75–79. (Read Article Here)
Pazyar, N., Yaghoobi, R., Ghassemi, M. R., & Kazerouni, A. (2013). Jojoba in dermatology: A succinct review. Giornale Italiano di Dermatologia e Venereologia, 148(6), 687–691. (Read Article Here)